Module construction

We've (kids+me) made two 2' x 4' frames (well, 2' x 4' 1.5" frames). We used the Free-mo N suggestions: 6" high by 24" wide 3/4" birch plywood end pieces, then the same plywood but 4' long by 4" wide for the side boards (thus the overall 4' 1.5" length: we could use two 2' x 4' plywood boards and minimize cuts). Glued and screwed (using a Kreg jig) the frames together. Before this assembly, clamped the two endplates that would touch together, then drilled two holes, each of one inch diameter, on either side of the midpoint so that wired could pass between (Free-mo N doesn't do this, and instead runs wire under module ends). To help alignment between the two sections, each has two 5 mm diameter metal pegs that fit into complementary holes in the other module. Many of the deviations from Free-mo suggestions come because I want to be able to slide the modules together on a table or shelf and so there won't always be room for attaching a C-clamp (though the modules are made so this is possible). Each module also has eight felt feet underneath so they can be put on various surfaces without damaging them (you can see them in the photos elevating the module above the driveway). I have also attached the pink foam for the surface (attached using Liquid Nails for Projects, though they're a flush fit to the end pieces).

Overall, this is coming out neater and stronger than I expected. The one thing I've noticed is that I find a 2' x 4' module awkward to carry if it is to be kept level: reaching under to hold the opposite side doesn't feel secure, nor does grabbing the end pieces. I'm sure with practice it will be better.

Free-mo N

I'd been thinking of making my layout as a set of Ntrak modules (even went so far as to buy their booklets) but didn't want the whole three mainlines thing. I then decided to do the garage as one big shelf, but I haven't been working on it. Also, I've been growing concerned that it's not flexible: when we move, if I want to try modeling another area, etc., I'm stuck. I read about European Freemo and was intrigued, and heard about it being done in the US (but with an extra hyphen: Free-mo). It's a nice concept: specify the ends, so modules fit together, specify good track standards, and leave the rest up to the modeler. It's designed more for operation than display -- while Ntrak has 3 main lines with lots of action, Free-mo has a single main line (usually), and the European groups sometimes just rent out a large room for an operating session just for operators. They do have displays, however: I remember seeing a multi-legged centipede of a layout at a model railroad show that in retrospect probably was a Free-mo layout. There are both HO and N scale standards. The standards include scenery standards to keep modules consistent (no Mojave desert module sitting next to autumn in New Hampshire). However, I'd like to do winter scenery, so it won't be Free-mo compatible. This isn't a criticism of the Free-mo standard -- I think their scenery standard makes sense, just not what I want to do for my home layout [they also prohibit Peco code 55 track and turnouts (wrong tie spacing), which I've already invested in]. However, I will adopt basically their standards for everything else (track feeders 24 gauge or bigger, bus wire 12 gauge, butt joints between modules) -- if experts hash out the best way to do something, it's a good idea to go with that absent other information.